Thursday, February 26, 2015

Zion National Park

First blog post in forever!

After a rather long hiatus, it’s good to be back writing again, and so I’ll pick up where this blog ended and this road trip was continuing.

After a brief stop in Bryce Canyon and Kodachrome, I headed down the road to spend some days in Zion. I had been to Zion once, though it was a brief trip, happening 2 days after Ironman St George (about 3 years earlier to the week!), which didn’t make for a very exciting experience. It was a total take-the-tram-everywhere-but-not-really-go-anywhere-because-I’m-tired type of visit based on that typical post-Ironman fatigue. I was a total tourist that day and was not a fan! I even probably slept after the measly 2 hours of walking that day...

First stop was actually going to be home base, the Zion Ponderosa. The ponderosa is an outdoors-persons resort, sitting at about a mile high, 20 minutes outside the east entrance to Zion. It’s got a ton of open space, activity areas setup (volleyball courts, climbing wall, etc), available excursions (4-wheeling, canyoneering), a full-fledged restaurant, a personable owner, tent camping, wagon wheel camping and cabin camping – all for very good prices.

On top of all these great benefits, you also won’t have to deal with the park crowds nor having to reserve a camp site months in advance. I reserved my tent site only 2 weeks out! If you stay here, I also highly recommend eating at East End Pizza on your way back from the park after your daily excursions. I’m not sure if they had the best pizza, or if it’s because I was surviving on oatmeal, nut butters and bars for most of the day but this place rocks! Awesome artisan variety slices with a salad for cheap!

The ‘That's Deep Bro’ Part of this post

Warning! Deep philosophical tone approaching...

I was really looking forward to this part of the trip, as there was a (large) part of me that wanted to live minimally on this trip. I wanted to live on the bare essentials, so that's what I packed. I purposely chose a tent site over wagon wheels and cabins. I wanted to spend distraction-free time in nature. I wanted to trade blue digital screens for falling asleep shortly after the orange and red sunsets because that’s when we ‘should’ be going to sleep. I wanted to trade WiFi, 3G and 4G for 5-to-6 Hour hikes. I wanted to feel hunger. Not the hunger most comfortable people have, but real hunger - hunger that resets priorities and perspectives for the long term.

It was a nod to life when I was was growing up - being content with the more simple life but hungry for better opportunities. It was somewhat of a stark contrast to the excess I lived and experienced for so long (no pun) with Ironman’s, RAAM’s and running across one of the world’s wonders and back. While these long distance adventures have afforded me extremely memorable experiences, lasting friendships, re-affirmation of and the new development of personal values, I couldn't help but think that that chapter of life was about to close and a more back-to-basics approach is what was best for my life.

It’s funny, as I look back on what I wanted out of life about 9 years ago, I remember distinctly saying something to myself one day on a surfboard. I was (and still am) living half a block from the pacific and surfing every day was fun, but I really wanted something – a hobby perhaps but maybe something different – more. Something more new, adventurous, challenging, gratifying, social and engulfing - something I could live - and I definitely found that with these adventures I've experienced.

You’ll have to pardon all the deep thought, but the reality is that this trip changed my life both at the time, shortly thereafter, and well after it was done.

So why say all that? I want to share with anyone who might be going to Zion how freaking awesome the hikes I did are, and also touch on the importance of spending time in nature as a means to cleanse (if not quiet) the mind, rejuvenate the spirit and provide some perspective.

On the latter topic, as described in the Grand R2R2R post, life had thrown me a curve ball, but in the end, it was exactly what was best for me (and it's nice to write that confidently, as I just got engaged!). A good friend of mine strongly encouraged me to charge the Grand Canyon because I’d get a lot out of it and that it’d be my own version of vision quest. Further, James was no stranger is describing how clarifying his R2R2R bout was. These were huge words of encouragement for me but the reality is the 4 days I spent in this national park was the one of the most mentally clarifying experience I've ever had. I can offer up 2 lessons that I found profoundly valuable:
  • When throws you that curve ball, it’s human nature to surround yourself with distractions (hell, people do that enough with their phones these days). It would have been way easier for me to go home after the Grand Canyon, and engulf myself in the near constant distractions offered by daily life in the form of phone notifications, work emails, “Hey, let’s a grab a beer” and anything else I could have done. Instead, I hiked for 4-7 hours every day, mostly by myself, in arguably one of the most beautiful places in the country, where the only distractions I had were birds chirping and bugs buzzing. I took this opportunity to confront and process all the thoughts that would have otherwise been suppressed in modern day life. While the aesthetics of the park provided its own distractions, they were welcome and the power of nature coupled with some solitude and occasional run-ins with close friends can be thy best healer.
  • Travel logistics can prove to be fun projects to make worthwhile experiences happen, no matter how difficult. To most, I'm stating the obvious, but travel - especially somewhere different - always offers a makes for a fresh mindset. The transportation logistics on this trip alone might have been enough for anyone to say “it’s just easier if I go back home” (but obviously, I didn't opt for that). The fact that I was driving on the open road with great music, in very beautiful places, was an awesome added plus. Here were the logistics, that involved at least 3 different cars over the course of 9 days:
    • Drive from San Diego to the Grand Canyon with a friend in his car
    • Leaving the GC, Ron goes out of his way and drops me off in Flagstaff to pick up rental car
    • I drive to Page, then to Bryce, then to Zion
    • I meet friends in St George on their way back to San Diego, and they help me drop off the rental car in Vegas (no fees for drop off in a separate location!)
    • We demolish a buffet in Vegas, and head back to SD
    • Catch a ride from a friend in SD meeting place back home

The Hiking Part with Photos!

OK, enough of the deep philosophical stuff, here are the hikes I’d highly recommend anyone do!

Angels Landing + West Rim Trail (Heading North)

Angels Landing is the iconic hike in Zion and for good reason! It is totally worth it, and here’s how I’d describe it: Was I ever frozen or scared for my life? No. Did it have my full and undivided attention? Yes. Was I amazed that our national parks presented normal people with this level of risk? Yes. Did I see people who I would consider less fit and adventurous than me doing Angels Landing? Yes.

In other words, make it happen!

Here are some photos from the hike:

Angels Landing

After that, I moseyed on over to the West Rim Trail for some more exploring. This hike was pretty cool because I was away from the crowded valley and nearing some backcountry-ish area. I had done no research on the area, so I had no idea if bears, mountain lions, or any other hazards were out there or not. Having also started this hike in early/mid-afternoon, I ran out of daylight towards the end, which invoked some feelings of simply feeling alive, even if I was in the comfortable confines of this park. What I really liked about this part of the hike was the exposure going up the main mesa rim was similar to Yosemite – it wasn't idiot proof. There was a double wide trail but a very steep drop off for quite a ways. There was comfort, but risk as well. Very fun!

Observation Point + Hidden Canyon

Another “totally worth it” hike, and somewhat similar to climbing the West Rim Mesa, there was a long climb up a double wide trail, going up a mesa with very steep drop offs on both sides. The canyon heading to the base of the climb was also very beautiful, and extremely diverse in its topography, colors and terrain. Do note that if you haven’t done much downhill training, this hike may beat you up a bit on the way back down.

Morning View overlooking the Virgin River

When you go to Zion, don't spend any time on your phone (like these two)

Observing at Observation Point
How it felt when weather moved in

Wicked Cool!

Feeling small in a big canyon
Good Evening

East Rim to Cable Mountain, then down to the Valley

This one required some logistics planning with Airey and Lynn. I was able to leave my car at the east rim trail head (near the east entrance) and finish in the valley, and we would meet up and they’d drive me back to my car (it also helped that they were staying at the Ponderosa as well).

This was the trip of the trip that everything really ‘clicked’ for me. After leaving cable mountain, I was returning in a flat sun drenched meadow, where as I mentioned below, the only sounds I could hear were birds and bugs. In fact, I took two videos to remember that moment, and if this doesn't elude peace, I’m not sure what would:

Here are a few random photos:

West Rim Trail from Lava Point (heading south)

After spending 3 days hiking in, out, up and down the Zion Valley, I opted to head to a different part of the park. Lava point (aptly named) is situated about a 45 minute to an hour drive from the south entrance, provided a completely different Zion experience. As you drive up, gone are the Sandstone mesas, which are replaced with Aspens and Volcanic rock. With a starting point of 8,000ft above sea level, it just feels different too.

I had some friends that were doing the Zion traverse this day and I wanted to hike backwards to catch them around the mid-point. This hike, with its different topography was equally as gratifying as the valley hikes, also offers greater solitude, as it’s less traveled (likely because there is no park transportation up here). Here are some photos from the hike/run:

Sunrise in the Aspens

Single Track Heaven

About that solitude… as I was enjoying the relative silence of my own footsteps and bees buzzing, I faintly heard a voice off in the distance. I checked my watch, and sure enough, it was the boys heading north bound at about the area I’d expect to meet them. Quickly assessing the area, I found an old fallen down trail just off trail to hide behind. As the crew approached, I felt bad for whom was out in front, because I jumped out from behind the tree screaming at the top of my lungs to scare the shit out of them! Toby almost lost it, Mike yelled obscenities, Airey instinctively came at me with a haymaker and Paul sat in the back laughing his ass off! Completely derailed, we all spent a few minutes laughing and sharing some stories. Despite offering to join them, the fatigue from R2R2R was still readily apparent and so I passed and headed southward to continue to explore more country.

After about 20-30 minutes, I started getting hungry, sat on a stump, took in some calories and realized it was stupid to let my friends run off without joining them. I then took off in a fury, wondering how long it would take me to catch them. I wasn't exactly fresh, but I also wasn't running at “50 mile pace”. While the elevation was definitely making me suck wind, it was fun playing cat-and-mouse.

After about 30-40 minutes I caught them, and ran/hiked with Toby and Airey until we got to their halfway point, where there was a bunch of other people from their crew hanging out, taking in some calories before tackling the second half of the traverse. Airey, having done - and crushed! - St. George 70.3 the weekend prior, called it a day, and hiked back to the car with me. We headed back to the Ponderosa, grabbed some food, and took in my last sunset of the trip. The spring sky was painted in its typical southwest colors, and it was sweet to head to bed with that was my last visible sight.

After that, it was an early morning to meet the crew in St G, before heading to Vegas where we absolutely demolished one of the local casino buffets. Despite the ‘deep’ and minimalist tone at the beginning of this blog post, the Vegas buffet was also one of the best ways to finish the trip. Solitude in the wilderness while not living on much was great, but so was the nice change of hanging out with friends and ‘topping off our tanks’ in what might be the place most known for its excess. I've written before on the benefits of balance and counter balance, and this trip just reaffirmed that you really need both in life. After gorging ourselves to the point of almost needing to get rolled out, the trip back to SD was filled with war stories of their R2R2R (Mike and Toby had done it a few years prior), farting, bullshitting, laughter, and philosophies on life. Good times and good friends, indeed.

Thanks for reading!

Sunday, October 20, 2013

Somewhere around Kodachrome

After a good, very sound, night of warm slumber, we decided to do a hike in a wash about 13 miles of dirt road away. Despite my econobox rental car not sporting a 4x4 option, after getting a feel for the 'road', there were a few 'rally-inspired' spirited efforts across the open expanse to a destination that is best described as "Look for the sign about a quarter mile after a really steep descent, about 13 miles or so down the road". Fortunately, 6 sets of eyes targeted the sign, parked the off-roading beast, and started meandering around in the middle-of-nowhere back country.

Texture of the surroundings:

Texture within the surroundings:

Contrasting colors:


We ultimately found our destination, which was a canyon/wash, whose name I forget. It was basically us in a canyon of 200 ft walls on either side of us. Pretty neat, though most of the photos are downward looking:


Really windswept

The road out of the middle-of-nowhere
After leaving the canyon, we headed back on the rally road, only to look out towards out campsite and what would could be. I had to pull over and get this one:

Storm Chasin'


Fortunately, our campsite wasn't submerged, but we did make it back into Tropic to grab some food. As we were on our way out of the restaurant, we were greeted with some serious size hail, but with the camera stuck in the car for the downpour, all we have are memories of lots of laughter!

Tuesday, October 08, 2013

Kodachrome Basin State Park

As I was leaving Page, I got a call from The Hammer (who just crushed IMSG 70.3) asking me what my plans were for the next few days. I had already made reservations at the Zion Ponderosa for Mon - Sat, but a quick persuasion in the form of "Dude, you should come to Kodachrome, it's pretty sweet here" had me sold. I knew Zion was the ultimate destination, but it's always a good time hanging out with the Baringers and I'd welcome the social change from the past few days.

The drive from Page to Bryce can really be broken up into 2 parts: From Page to Kanab, and then Kanab to Bryce - neither of which I have many pictures from - that would do the justice anyways. What the lack photos can't show could be described as two very different, yet beautiful drives.

From Page to Kanab (potentially partially documented in Eliot's blogs) is desert southwest region with one long ass road that cuts through just north of the UT/AZ border moonscape. It had very few cars, and the surroundings over the course of 2.5 hours went from 'Arizona' red hues and rugged terrain, to Utah's replace-some-of-that-Arizona-red-with-some-green - all of which provided ample views for my mind to wander and gaze at nature's beauty with only the slightest bit of modern human development.

After leaving the bustling town of Kanab, the road turns north, and most of that redness is replaced with green-ness, with the route running along side a river for what seems to be like forever. The ground turned from moonrock to fertile ground, complete with livestock, and a winding road that forced you to slow down, even if nature hadn't already done so to one's eyes. My parting thoughts from this part of the drive were that it was yet another one of my favorite drives, and if one were to want to retire, raise livestock and generally be tucked away from the chaos of modern society, this area would be prime for the calling.

As I neared the Bryce Canyon entrance, there started being more 'weather':

As I drove into the park, I saw my first hoodoos, and had to pull over to document my first "Dang, those are cool!" photo.

But as I opened that car door, I realized I was no longer in the warm Arizona desert, with some cold wind getting the attention of a San Diegian. I continued on my drive, and saw a sign that said "Elevation 7700 ft" and thought "Uuuuhhhhh I didn't bring clothes for this elevation"

My next thought was more of the "Oh shit" variety - I realized that I make a complete rookie mistake and never packed a sleeping bag! Nor did I really plan to spend much time over 7K ft and the variable weather it includes! This was apparent in my abundance of short sleeve shirts and shorts. With not even a bar of 1x service left, I called Airey, explained the situation, and he was able to pick me up a sleeping bag (and poncho!) in the small town of "Tropic" between where I was, and where I needed to be. This ended up being a life saver for the next week! "A friend in need is a friend indeed", indeed! I wondered what the temperature was going to be for the night, and while I don't remember the specifics, something like 35 was returned from my weather app and all I could think "OK, more adventure!".

I arrived at my destination after meeting The Hammers in Tropic, and we headed to what is known as Kodachrome Basin State Park. It's a small little campground nestled around some rather large canyon rocks, as seen below:

We went on a little hike to get a lay of the land, which was pretty easy to do, based on all the mounds we could climb.

Here is what I like to call Kodachrome's mini version of Garden of the Gods:

Shortly before the point of no more usable daylight, we headed back to the campsite to make some dinner, since as usually is the case for Airey and I - our stomachs were rumbling, and the situation had to be addressed, immediately.

This is The Hammer feasting. Even bears generally avoid him during times like this.

We tucked in for the night for some exploring the next day (documented in the next post!).

Thursday, September 19, 2013

Page Arizona

After the Grand Canyon, I had my heart set on doing a little tour of the Southwest US of A - or at least as much as I could within a 5 hourish drive of the Grand Canyon. The thought process was quite easy: I was going to be in one of the more beautiful regions of the country, so I might as well do some exploring. Running (slogging) across the Grand Canyon and back is cool, but there's so much more out there than just that big hole in the ground! Having grown up a New Englander, there always was an intrigue and draw to the desert southwest, and I needed to figure out how to make this work.

Fortunately, I had a separate group of friends who were heading out to do the Zion Traverse the weekend after R2R2R. This solidified the need to stick around in the area, with Zion ultimately being my destination, as my alternatives were to 1.) simply go home, or 2.) do my 2nd 8+ hour drive in 3 days, then do it again to Zion 4 days later, and of course, again, a few days later to return back to America's Finest. So, 4 days of 8-9 hour drives over the course of 9 days? No thanks. I'll stick around, explore. Maybe even be a tourist!

Next stop on my itinerary was a little town called Page, Arizona. Most people have never heard of Page (myself included up until about a month beforehand), but after following the U.S. Department of Interior's instagram account, I noted a few photos from locales around Page that really caught my attention. Having bought myself a nice little Christmas gift a few months prior, I figured it was time to become acquainted and do some exploring.

One thing to note: the drive from the Grand Canyon to Page included a large section of RAAM last year that Airey and I absolutely torched. Surprisingly, it didn't invoke many nostalgic memories and day dreaming. Maybe it was because it was only 65 and cloudy rather than 104 and sunny, or because the immediate scarring of the grand canyon was at the forefront of my mind.

Anyhow, I got to Page, and after establishing a layout of the land that included my Motel 8 penthouse suite and a hole-in-the-wall mexican restaurant that would rival Roberto's in Mission Beach, I headed over to my first stop.

Glen Canyon Dam

Pretty much the reason why Page is on the map, the Glen Canyon Dam was built originally to provide hydroelectricity and regulate water levels from the upper Colorado river that I ran across just a few days prior.

I have no photos of the Dam, but in essence, it's a Dam - not much else. The surrounding area though had some interesting texture to it:

Horseshoe Bend

It's a geographic anomaly whose pictures do no justice. I parked my sweet econobox rental car, and made the treacherous half-mile sandy hike. From afar, it's really hard to get your head wrapped around what you are walking towards:

But once I got to the edge of the 1,000ft cliff overlooking this freak of nature, it was hard not to behold the power of what she can do if given enough time:

Click for monitor size bigness

I took about a Bazillion more photos, all of which look the same and continue to do no justice - not to mention my camera lense is simply not wide enough - so the above photo is stitched.

Not captured: How amazingly quiet and peaceful it was here.

Antelope Canyon

A lot of people go to Page for their trophy photos of this canyon, and quite honestly, I was no different. It was less for the trophy photo, and more of the experience and being in and seeing this cave up-close-and-personal. Pretty neat how wind and water helped shape this canyon over time.

But first, just outside of Page is this little contrast of environments: Nature showing her beauty, and man - well, being man.

Of course, going down into the earth via narrow passage was kind of neat too:

From within:

You can probably see where waters has trickled in on this one:

More abstractness:

We even got a little bit of rain towards the end.

Normally, being in a slot canyon when there is any type of rain is a big no-no, but I didn't feel particularly worried, seeing as though we were close to the end of this little tour.

On the contrary, this made the "tourists" freak out rather quickly, and there was a exodus towards the exit staircase. Of course, this being america, it was closely followed by quite a few people getting winded and out of breath from climbing 2 flights of stairs.

After that, it was time to gas up at a gas station where I was the only non-native american there and then I was on my way to Zion - I mean Bryce Canyon!